Written by Florence Fabricant
Published on July 24, 2018
An Italian restaurant focused on a king mushroom
The lush, meaty cuisine of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy has relatively little representation on New York’s dining scene, so Nonna Beppa is a welcome addition. The specialty of the house is tortellini, and you can see Martha Salamanca, the head pasta maker, rolling and fashioning it at her station in the front window. The tortellini, filled with cured meats, fresh pork and Parmigiano-Reggiano, are compact, perfectly formed and served in broth or bathed in cream. There are also more than a dozen other pastas from the region on the menu, alongside cured meats, meatballs and breaded chicken cutlets with prosciutto and Parmigiano. A good list of Lambruscos (as well as other selections) to complement the food is also available. The chef is Giancarlo Cacciatori, known as Wendy, who owns this restaurant with his wife, Valentina Imbrenda, and another partner. Mr. Cacciatori has two restaurants outside Bologna and another one, Via Emilia 9, in Miami Beach. His New York debut, named for his grandmother, is in a somewhat unfinished industrial space with subdued lighting and tables draped in white napery.
At vero eos et accusam et justo duo dolores et ea rebum.
